Summer Reading

 I just finished reading Alexandra Shulman's memoir of her years as Editor-in-Chief of British Vogue titled Clothes and Other Things that Matter. I wanted to read what others had written on the topic of clothes, and Shulman's book seemed to overlap in so many ways with my own interests in the topic. Even the title, which indeed announces a primary interest in clothes, but then takes off in many other directions, including used clothes, career choices, relationships, and some family history, overlaps with my tentative title for a book I'm trying to write (based on this blog) in which I want to expand on used clothes but also on material culture more generally. 

Anyway. I finally relaxed on the back porch with the book, and my cat as loyal companion. I also wore some used clothes: an older acquisition (the pink Talbot's blouse) and a new one (a pair of truly vintage Liz Claiborne linen shorts). 

I found the shorts on that recent trip to Montpelier, VT. They're high waisted and have belt loops (here I go providing details about the clothing, after reading Shulman: I wonder, what's taken me so long?), and they're very comfortable, as shorts should be. So, to continue "à la Shulman," analyzing clothing one type of garment at a time, shorts (which she doesn't write about actually, her chapters are themed around specific garments and accessories) have been a problem for me for years. There was a time when I couldn't find comfortable women's shorts, mainly because they were very tight at the waist, only to open up too much at the hips and buttocks area. I have often bought men's shorts which are also longer down the leg. At long last, designers are making shorts for women that are comfortable and stylish. I found a light blue pair at COS with an elasticized waist and nice deep pockets and paid full price for them. They're perfect on a very hot day, walking around a sultry city (like Boston, a few weeks back). And of course, I now have these vintage linen shorts. 

Back to the Shulman book and some insights from her: I love how she makes the reader think about their favorite dress, coat or pair of shoes. In thinking about these favorites, I realized that I don't own my favorite coat (yet) because it's an expensive fantasy: a long, belted, black or navy blue or grey cashmere, buttoned piece. Max Mara makes one, and the moment I find one in a vintage store at a reasonable price, I will acquire it. As for my favorite dress, I think that I do own it, I just haven't worn it yet. It's an Eileen Fisher silk shift, green and navy blue print, that is "dry clean only," which is why...I haven't worn it yet. I am also waiting for the special occasion to wear it (maybe a retirement dinner or a wedding). It's very flattering, and makes me feel confident when I wear it. (Shulman explains the role clothes play in building confidence). As for the shoes. That's a tough one. My first pair of fancy shoes were Ferragamos that my father bought with me as consolation for not going to ski camp (I had gotten the flu). They were bone colored T strapped mary janes with a one inch heel. I don't have them any more, I don't remember wearing them and what happened to them, it's very odd. 

As for my current shoe collection, I love the Birkenstocks I wear for gardening, a blue metallic pair that I found on a discount shoe web site. If I had to choose one pair of shoes in a house fire, I guess it would have to be those Birkenstocks. I also love a pair of winter boots that I also found on an online web site, lace-ups, waterproof, resemble old-fashioned men's spats. 

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The overlap between Shulman and myself is very limited. Besides our ages, she is slightly older than I am, hence we both entered the work force in the 1980s, her career and mine are worlds apart. But that doesn't mean that we don't overlap in our thinking about clothes. Her insights on her first "suit" reminded me that a jacket and matching skirt were de rigueur for certain mid-level and high level jobs back in the 1980s. Maternity clothes in the 1990s (awful, not that the current tight tube look is much of an improvement) reminded me of my quest for something presentable and comfortable (I remember a jumpsuit made out of sweatshirt fabric). Where we find inspiration for our dressing style varies from person to person, but we look in the same places: celebrities, rich people, street wear if you're young, a beautiful teenager back in the day...

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I'll close on an idea that I developed in my newest graphic novel (Empty Nesting II) regarding self-care. I buy used coats -- I am a coat "rescuer" and one time, when I wasn't feeling well, I imagined that all my coats were piled on top of me to keep me warm and feeling "enveloped." Shulman also writes about a coat -- a trench coat in this case -- that gives her a sense of security. 

Needless to say, her book was a fun read, and I wish we could all share our reactions including our own favorite ... coat, dress, shoes...shorts. What is your favorite garment and why? 

Garbo, and odds and ends

Before I dive into Greta Garbo, I just want to quickly report on a recent day trip to Montpelier, VT with my partner whose birthday it was, and who wanted to check out the used record store and vintage clothing store -- not only still there, but increased in size! The record store is called Buch Spieler Records, and now, the separate vintage clothing store next door is called The Getup Vintage. Both are on little Langdon Street. If you want to shop for antique furniture and housewares, keep walking down the same street to J. Langdon.

                                                                    Buch Spieler Records

                                                                J. Langdon antiques

Outside the Getup Vintage

During what is turning out to be a continuing pandemic during which travel remains risky, I like that Vermont, the most fully-vaccinated state in the union, has plenty to offer this summer. The vibe in Montpelier remains very chill, with plenty of small shops and restaurants to keep one entertained. We had lunch on the Winooski river at an Italian Restaurant before the skies opened up (again). 

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More odds and ends: 

Shoes displayed on vertical wooden pallets at Uplifting Thrifting, White River Junction, VT

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And now for Greta Garbo. One way to "connect" the day trip with the Swedish actress is via the sunglass display. Garbo along with other stars were and are known to cover their eyes with shades. The reasons why seem obvious, to hide what is not their natural beauty because they have not spent hours in the make-up room. Because the beauty that you see on the screen is so photoshopped that the real life person may look very different. Because they are aging and don't want people to see. Because they need to maintain their "aura" (merci monsieur Barthes/Mythologies/"Garbo's Face). 

I have been fascinated with her face since I was young. I notice that it has been "changed" for the Hollywood industry, no more natural eyebrows, no more curly hair.  I realize that the "face" that fascinates me is frozen in time, as she achieved mythological status by disappearing, by her absence rather than her presence. A number of cultural critics have written about her, which reassures me that my fascination is shared by many. I just needed someone to refer to when wearing my newest vintage acquisition, a green silk suit from "Nancy the Girl," in White River Junction. (see https://fringarde.blogspot.com/2021/07/another-vintage-clothing-store-opens-in.html)

I found a felt hat to complete the Garbo look. When the weather cools again, I might find the courage to wear it. As for the shoes. TBD. 

A fun to watch podcast

 Vogue's "closet shrink," Liana Satenstein, helps people decide what clothes and accessories to keep and which ones to part with. Her podcast is fun and informative to watch. 

Boston's last working pier

 

From time to time I diverge from the main topic of used clothes to observe the disappearance of other aspects of what I will loosely term "material culture." 

Over the weekend, with a desire to feel the ocean breezes of Boston Harbor, I headed to that section of the city where I spent the night at the Seaport Hotel, not a bargain, but still, it's peak tourist season and the hotel was offering a special deal. Because the coffee machine in the room was not working, I headed down to the lobby where I realized that it was a good time to take a walk, coffee cup in hand. The beautiful morning light was beckoning.  On that early morning harbor walk, I stumbled upon a rather impressive set of buildings reminiscent of Ellis Island (and from the same era --1905). I walked between them to the building at the far end where two women came out of their cars and opened the door to that last building. They looked friendly. 

I inquired, and received valuable information: this was the last working pier in Boston, where restaurants received fresh fish from fishing boats. The main building is now a wedding venue, which explains why the two women were there, along with trucks unloading dozens of stacked chairs. 

I hoped to see a fishing boat unload its catch, but alas, it did not happen. I did make a modest photo essay instead. 

Schitt's Creek and Comme des Garçons

 I was just in NYC for a quick trip to see my mom and hang out with a friend who really knows clothes. Sarah had written a Master's thesis on women, fashion and modernity, and one of the designers that she analyzed was Rei Kawakubo. So, when we happened to walk by the entrance to the store, "Comme des Garçons," Sarah was very excited to actually see, touch and try on some of the iconic designer's clothes. 

Meanwhile, I had actually just watched the episode from "Schitt's Creek" in which David Rose, one of the main characters and writers of the series, had worn the little heart with eyes logo shirt, and there it was, in the "flesh"! I am learning that the series sought clothing from second hand sources because they wanted top designer clothing to flesh out the characters even more. Hence Moira wore Balenciaga and David wore...Comme des Garçons! 

There was a sale going on inside that iconic designer's store, and Sarah and I both tried on some skirts and dresses. We each went home with a slightly different red dress. This was a strange purchase for me. I had never purchased a dress just because it was so beautifully made, never mind a new dress. When would I wear it and for what occasion? Why did I spend money on yet another dress, especially a new one? 

                                                all three images from "Comme des Garçons" website

To begin to answer the question, I realize that Sarah and I went through a process together, acquiring a piece of clothing that would retain meaning for years to come. More and more people of all gender identifications are living through "ceremonial" moments together, moments that serve as alternative, "outside" rites of passage to the normative sequence of engagement/wedding/marriage. I have been married twice, and have done each in a relatively low-key way. I have never had an engagement party nor a bridal shower nor a baby shower. When I was on the threshold of sixty, I thought of throwing a party that would ironically be called a "shower," showering nothing really, but then COVID happened. I'm not sure that I will ever regain the pre-COVID mindset of wanting to throw a big bash. 

Meanwhile, I think about the consequences of my purchase, and what it has to do with used clothing. It doesn't. But, as I do research for the book version of this blog,  I reread a passage in a book about sustainable clothing that reminds us of the amount of energy, water and pollution we generate AFTER we acquire a piece of clothing in order to keep it clean. The used silk suit that I just purchased at a local vintage store might have been sustainably sourced, but it won't be sustainably maintained as it will require dry cleaning. The CDG dress, on the other hand, can be machine washed and hung to dry. 

Without big crowd occasions at which to wear these expensive, high end clothes, and without a tv series in which to wear them either, I will relegate them to my closet where they will hang for years perhaps, ignored but not forgotten. I listen to Catherine O'Hara, the actress who plays Moira Rose on "Schitt's Creek," explain that the wigs she wore on the series helped her express or hide emotions depending on her mood. I'm not on a big hit series, but I do have moods. And friends with whom to celebrate important stages of life, even if that means that the celebration will only take place inside a fitting room with two people present. 

                                             Moira and David from "Schitt's Creek" courtesy The Guardian. 

 I end on these two photos from the aforementioned show and this article in The Guardian. 

Brattleboro VT in the summer time

 

This early July, I took a day trip to Brattleboro VT with my friend Sandra who had never been. My usual stops include: the museum, the restaurant on the Connecticut River, and...Twice Upon a Time. 

I loved this Talbots jacket, but I have enough jackets already. After grabbing some iced coffee, we also stopped into Boomerang, a clothes consignment shop, the used bookstore and the new bookstore (all three are on Elliot Street). Our final stop was a the food Coop which has an impressive display of bins selling everything from flour to grains to teas to herbs and spices. Brattleboro remains a wonderful destination for a day trip. What a pleasant surprise to see the all these independent businesses survive through the pandemic!

A vintage clothing store opens in WRJ

 In the Tip Top building, hidden away in a corner of that large converted bread factory, there is now a vintage women's clothing store simply called "Nancy the Girl." By contrast to "Revolution" and the other consignment stores in town, the emphasis here is really placed on vintage. After reading up on 1960s psychedelic and hippie styles, I walked into the store and found dresses straight out of that era. Nancy explained that she sources her clothes from a variety of places, including online, at garage sales and simply through donations.  

I ended up buying a green silk suit (the top is photographed above) simply because it was so beautiful and comfortable. I don't know if and when I'll ever have the occasion to wear it -- it's very green -- but that's okay. It's really the first time that I have ever bought such a useless garment. It only cost me forty-one dollars, which, thinking back on the joy of the sapeuse in a previous blog post, is not that much in relation to the joy of trying it on and talking about it to some of my friends.